Sardinia and Corsica

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Travelogue Catamaran sailing

A journey to paradise - La Maddalena and Bonifacio

Latest information on the permit La Maddalena Archipelago

Sardinia wasn't really on my wish list of destinations until now. That will fundamentally change over the next two weeks. Having arrived the evening before, I spent the first evening in the city of Olbia and was able to immerse myself in the Sardinian flair. My here wego - App showed me a way to get to the marina in Portisco by public bus. There was an electronic display at the bus stop, but only for the local buses and not the "intercity" buses. Without the app, I wouldn't have been able to find it. Even at the hotel, I was confronted with the fact that you can't always get anywhere with English here. I had also imagined it would be easier to convert my limited knowledge of Spanish into Italian. But somehow we always manage to come to an agreement.

The best place to buy a bus ticket is in Tabacchi shops, which sell the dirt-cheap tickets of 1.50 euros for a bus journey of three quarters of an hour. I have now switched to the TabNet app. However, setting up the app takes some time. Even there I only found the Italian language. On the other hand, it is not advisable to board without a ticket. Tickets are not sold on the Extraurbani bus and I have personally experienced passengers being asked to get off without a ticket. The Olbia -> San Pantaleo connection should be selected via the Extraurbani app! There is no Portisco stop in the app.
Once there, you descend the steep path to the marina and are greeted by a marvellous view over the bay.

Prologue - The Arrival

I have never experienced a boat briefing in Italian with a makeshift translation by the lady from the charter office, but it is carried out in a friendly and patient manner.
La Maddalena archipelago is the dream destination of most Sardinian sailors. However, such strong winds are forecast for the first week that a trip there and especially the jump to Corsica does not seem sensible. The sailwithus skippers are divided. While some decided to head north, we decided to avoid the windy north and take advantage of the more favourable forecasts to the south. In fact, we were sailing for all but one day, while our colleagues in the La Maddalena archipelago were moored at a buoy for three days and unable to set sail.

The journey takes us past an overnight stop in the Golfo degli Aranci further south, past the impressive Isola di Cavolara, where we also spend the night at anchor on another occasion. The two restaurants on the island are highly recommended. The history behind this island, which has legendary status, almost compels you to stay. Tavolara is the smallest kingdom in the world and is currently inhabited by around 11 people who are descendants of the first king. You have to bear this history in mind a little, because the restaurant visit is more like that of less prominent and more legendary places.

Further south

Once we arrive in La Caletta, we take a rest day. The area of rain that is passing through has some serious gusts of wind and the town itself is well worth a visit. For a change, it's nice to see a bit more of the country and its people.

The next day, as we set off eastwards before sunrise, two large dolphins accompany us as the sun rises. It's like being transported into a cheesy novel. There are still occasional small clouds with a slight tendency to shower, but the weather is stable enough for you to relax in the hammock under the large tree if you wish.

So on the last day we return to the charter base in Marina Portisco. When we return the boat, the wind picks up again and it looks unlikely that we will be able to set sail on the new yacht on Sunday. Especially as there is still no yacht available for me.

The agreed boat is not available due to damage. And at the end of September, it is clear that the season is coming to an end and necessary repairs will then be scheduled over the winter months. "End of season" becomes a running gag.

After I have repeatedly expressed the wish to be assigned a yacht, the boat name "Pandora" comes up. Who would think of naming a boat like that? I have a bad feeling. But it gets even worse: I hear something about "catamaran". Aren't they those strange floating caravans? And shouldn't I take into account the fact that I've never driven one of these things before? I'm reassured that it's quite simple and they give me some important information and a briefing. Back at the jetty, I look for the Pandora. It could have been a 40 to start with, but why mess around when you can splash out.

I've often been annoyed why the guys just do what seems right to them and don't discuss it with the skipper. I think you have to make it clear that you only want support when it's necessary and there are commands for it. I completely understand that sailors who are only on holiday for a week on a charter yacht would like to have these manoeuvres more or less taken off their hands, but if you have a plan and the marinero tears the boat apart, it's no fun at all.

The neighbouring boat has a small defect, but lo and behold... That's the one I originally got and won't be travelling on this year due to the need for repairs. We have a long discussion about how to deal with the matter from a moral point of view.

I go to the helm and look down at the monohulls. With reservations as to whether I can really do this, but also with a small portion of pride that I have been entrusted with this beast. Two fridges, something I don't even have at home, and cabins that offer plenty of space and luxury. Somehow madness.

The mooring causes a little discomfort. I can't just leave the harbour, I have to pass all the boats and thus the taut mooring lines before I can leave the jetty. And that in the wind.

The crew arrives, four men who had actually booked a monohull. After the initial surprise, they familiarise themselves with the space and luxury on offer - and with the idea of simply having a good time on this ship.

After getting to know each other, it's time to plan the first day at sea. I just don't have the confidence to set off in this boat in winds of well over 20 ktn. The yacht Maria, which I already had the previous week, is taken over by a friendly skipper colleague. He also has a small crew, but they really want to go out on Sunday. So we agree that I will give the skipper a hand and we will all take the Maria out into the Golfo de Congianus. I can take credit for having warned them...
In fact, after leaving the harbour, we notice that it is blowing even more on the water, as expected. The furling main that we had been using the previous week failed to co-operate halfway through furling out. A reef is certainly a good idea, but you usually want to adjust it yourself. Nothing works here, neither forwards nor backwards. Our skipper quickly ties the sail to the boom as best he can and we realise that the one-hour trip is enough. We sail back into the marina, get a good sideways blow from the marineros and their dinghy, which we hadn't expected, and bump into the neighbouring boat.

Nothing helps the next day, the cat wants to be moved. The "parking space" hasn't got any wider, so we carefully fiddle the lines and move forward. Steering wheel locked and only steered with the two engines. In fact, something is really happening. Am I far enough out to turn the catamaran? It could fit. Darius calls out while I'm initiating my turning manoeuvre, asking if he can take away the lead line now. Damn, I was so excited that I hadn't paid attention to it. A casual "line can go over" then solves this problem and leaves us detached on the water. I actually find the centre for the exit, both engines slowly ahead and straight through the narrow mooring lines. But after a few metres this has nothing to do with sailing straight ahead. With the appropriate engine assistance, I keep the cat straight, but I have to use considerably more energy on the starboard side than on the other side. Finally, the harbour pier is behind us and we are now sailing with a steering wheel. We immediately notice that the marked centre position is not the centre at all, but almost half a turn more is required. Well, then the markings have to be slightly to the left at the bottom. It's crap like this that makes life difficult in the harbour, otherwise the casting off manoeuvre would have been really relaxed.

Together with the Maria, we turn south again to carry out the first anchor manoeuvre with a cat. In the completely empty anchorage, a German cruising sailor is moored in his small, old yacht and calls out to us from afar that we should get out of here, that he had dropped 60 metres of anchor chain, that he was a long keeler and that our cat had a different swing circle. I listen to this in disbelief and think, well, let's get a bit closer. This was probably his first contact with people in a year. I would have liked to show him how much distance there is when anchoring in popular bays on Mallorca. He goes down briefly and arrives with his camera to document something. Oh boy... Are there guys like that in other countries?

After a restful night, our friendly neighbour goes for a swim without wearing any clothes. July of our crew shouts over to him about the long keeler... haha, successful joke. At some point he casts off, we have a nice breakfast and finally set off for La Maddalena.

Passing all the huge motor yachts, leaving the famous Porto Cervo to the left, we look for an anchorage bay. And now the magic of the archipelago begins to shine. What an outrageously beautiful place. If there was ever a longing for the Caribbean or something similar, it has vanished here.

A journey to paradise - La Maddalena and Bonifacio

On the way, we meet our new-found friend again, bobbing along. Our cat is of course perfectly trimmed and we get closer to him. If this isn't a regatta situation, what is? So we take the last remaining wind to windward and leave him behind with a flapping boom. It has to be fun.

Our anchorage on the west side of Caprera, just before the bridge that connects this island with La Maddalena, is fantastic. We go ashore the next morning, take a long swim in the crystal-clear water and set off further north, with Corsica on our doorstep. Dennis is back in his normal casual clothes for this, after giving us the J.Lo with his swimming trunks. Have I already mentioned how great my crew was? It was impossible to open your eyes in the morning and not burst out laughing again after five minutes at a stupid joke.

One more night in the archipelago - you can't get enough of the beauty of this region. I would never have dreamed that the highlight was still ahead of us.
The weather conditions are perfect for passing through the notorious Strait of Bonifacio. The high mountains of Corsica in particular create a real jet effect when the wind blows from the west or east. However, it wasn't quite as dramatic as some reports made it out to be.
Booking and reservation in the Marina von Bonifacio via this Link is essential. Ideally, the host country flag should be Corsican and not French. In any case, I stocked up on the spot and have the feeling that the marineros have allocated me a better spot on subsequent visits.

As Bonifacio approaches, my breath almost catches in my throat. The town, which can be seen on the edge of the cliffs 80 metres above the sea, can hardly be described in words. The entrance to the natural harbour, through the huge chalk cliffs, is one of the things I will never forget in my sailing life.

The marineros rigorously seal off the entrance. Anyone who hasn't made a reservation can go straight back out again. We get a spot near the excursion boats, are scrutinised by what feels like thousands of eyes, dock perfectly and.... .are asked to look for another spot. Shoot, everything had worked out so well. After all, this was the first mooring with a catamaran. But the second attempt is also successful, even if our jetty is actually a bit too small for us.

After paying for the berth, we make our way to the old town centre on the rock. If at first you feel like you're entering a castle with a large door, you then discover an entire town with narrow alleyways and fascinating houses. The crew goes to La Minute Moule, a recommendation for mussel lovers. I'm not a mussel lover myself and think the Corsican pasta with a special sauce is excellent.
The descent at night and the view of the harbour round off a more than successful evening. Later on, we stroll through the cemetery "Le Cimetière Marin de Bonifacio", where the dead are laid to rest in small house-like mausoleums. This place is also not without its magic. Instead, we invite the skipper from the neighbouring boat and listen to hair-raising adventures with a pinch of sailor's yarn. At half past three, we agree to finally stop talking.

Stay in Corsica - Bonifacio

After saying goodbye to Bonifacio, we go back into regatta mode. Behind us comes a large monohull yacht with beautiful laminate sails. We put our sails back, let's see if the cat climbs the wind a little better this way. We can set a course that the guys behind us might not quite like. And what do they do? Pack away the genoa completely, pass behind us and set the sail again. A manoeuvre that I have never experienced before. Tying the sheet would also be a practical option.
He then jets off to starboard and we continue our journey. After 10 minutes I see that the yacht is turning. I'm curious to see how much distance it has made up on us. A short time later, I realise: None. That's not true... Now we have to get out of the way. But shortly before the manoeuvre, the yacht turns again and makes a U-turn. It's a bit strange what's happening. At some point we see that they've packed up the sails and are continuing the journey under motor. Victory.

We find another great anchorage, Cala Lunga on Razzoli, for the last night, and there's even a mooring buoy free. Whether this is really intended for mooring is not entirely clear. I make the mistake of letting the men try to catch the buoy over the bow, the cat is simply too big for that. The more comfortable solution would have been to lay the line aft and drive the ship briefly with the stern against the buoy. However, our efforts are observed by the neighbouring crew and the youngsters in the dinghy set off to help. After the work is done, we are rewarded with a Coke and Dad gets a beer. I really must remember this trick.

The next morning, a group arrives in a motorboat and sets foot on the island. It seemed to me that you can't just go there on your own. A short time later, another motorboat with an official livery arrived. Obviously preoccupied with the boat that had landed, we hurried off.

For the La Maddalena archipelago, you normally need a ticket for the protected zone, but I was unable to book one online. As I had read that it is generally questionable how this situation works, we decided not to do any further research. But a strange feeling remains. ATTENTION! UPDATE! see link

On the last day we sailed extensively again, again most of the way close to the wind and again we were able to hold our own against the single-hulled boats that had the advantage. I also like to put this down to the limited expertise of the boats involved. I had imagined this course on a cat to be really unpleasant.
Back in the marina, we missed the time slot for the petrol station. So early the next day we got across quickly, no queue and no waiting time, actually ideal. However, our marineros were pretty annoyed that we had just driven back into the harbour like that. There is a strict rule in Portisco: no entry into the harbour without prior notice by radio.

So a wonderful trip came to an end, during which I was able to put aside my reservations about cat sailing. The comfort is impressive, and the other sailors are always happy to join us for the evening events.

Latest Information on the Permit La Maddalena Archipelago

Status April 2026:

The La Maddalena Archipelago requires a permit, which can be issued and paid for online via the website https://autorizzazioni.lamaddalenapark.it/index.php?ssez=Acquista.

During my countless weeks since August 2024, park rangers regularly came by on boats and checked on us. And by regularly, I mean daily. As the boat details and registration number of the charter yacht are given, the whole process is contactless. However, we have often seen yachts being stopped and having to pay. According to my information, the fines are significantly higher than the actual permit fees.

TIP: If you want to spend a carefree night at anchor, simply book your permit in good time.

Further information for the overnight stay:

The restrictions that have been in place in the meantime, namely that no overnight stays are permitted in the anchor bays of the La Maddalena archipelago, have now been finally lifted. However, this does not mean that you can anchor anywhere without thinking. More and more water sports enthusiasts are now realising that anchoring in the Posidonia is reprehensible. Unfortunately, last year I saw another motorboat idiot drop his anchor in the middle of a Posidonia field. Of course that doesn't hold. That would also be an argument for people for whom respect for nature and our habitat is a closed book. And so, with the water so clear, you could just take a look at where you position your anchor. It's a shame that there are still people who are hopelessly overwhelmed by this.

You can read about the latest decision here (official) and here (sailors' page). As always, I take no responsibility for the information provided in the links.